Flip switch change on a Mooer Black Secret micro pedal

[hangwire]

Hello there might be a couple threads that I start lately as I had a few pedals go out on me at the exact same time, so I look forward to all the advice and information from people who do this stuff way better than I do

This Mooer Black secret has the flip switch tip pushed into itself and no longer works. I am thinking I can replace the switch with a shorter tip one or even a latching push button to avoid this issue from reoccurring and get it working again.

On these micro pedals would I only have to desolder and replace a broke switch? See pic. Seems straight forward with 6 connectors, but asking to see if others have tried to work on these and noticed removing parts trashes these because of how compact they are on the board. If that is the case, can I solder a “jumper” between any of these 6 spots to at least have one of the modes working?

Also these do seem to have Lm308 chips for anyone who wondered and wanted that in a rat

[hangwire]

[crochambeau]

Yes, it's just a matter of desoldering that switch.

Might be a challenge if you do not have proper desoldering tools or a fine tuned technique because that part will sink some heat before letting go.

You might be better off by carefully destroying the switch from the top and pulling the pins out one by one.

[BetterOffShred]

I usually destroy from above and pull the pins one at a time, then a 3$ solder sucker or even a small drill bit to clear the pads. Seconded

[hangwire]

Ok good to know, I was just going to use my iron and melt each pin spot until it could be pulled out. I’ll try from the top and get some of that desoldering braid/sucker

[BetterOffShred]

The switch legs are all attached to the body, so getting all 6 spots hot at the same time is a real trick, which is where the destroying it from above so it comes out one leg at a time.

[eatyourguitar]

then a 3$ solder sucker or even a small drill bit to clear the pads. Seconded

solder suckers draw in a rush of cold air that will instantly cool down the thing you are trying to keep hot. this is why I don't use them unless it is part of a $2000 machine with a digitally controlled temp and a continuous air flow. I don't own the machine but if I did I think it would work fine. the drill bit through the through hole pads is something I would advise against because it is likely to completely remove important through hole plating that will sometimes be critical to completing a circuit. solder braid is a cheap but consumable expense. the switch is a massive heatsink so you may want to use something like a stain glass soldering iron or a soldering iron specifically designed for salvaging electronics parts. blow torch also works but that has obvious problems with unintentional damage, and toxic smoke from melting epoxy. the blow torch is for rapid salvage of mounted components when the PCB is being discarded. a low wattage iron will no doubt soak all the heat into the switch and PCB before the solder is at the plastic zone temperature. there is no chance for success in that case unless the pins are thermally decoupled from each other and the switch mass through a cutting method of switch disassembly. the final possible successful method is through "chipquick"TM disassembly alloy solder. this will have increased wetting action and the mixture of two different solder's will lower the melting point to make the job easy with cheap tools AND soldering braid or solder sucker (yes solder sucker).

[BetterOffShred]

Ymmv I've done it a bunch..

Solder sucker works pretty good for me usually.