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What he said^^^^

I use them for actual cabinets... like put dishes in and desks. and other assorted but would never put a guitar cab together in that fashion.

What kind of joints would you use? (curious, as I've though of the idea of building myself a 215)

Weed.

Weed joints.

Finger joints with extra bracing. or dove tail. just relying on kreg.. I can throw it down on a corner and it'll give. the other 2... it doesn't. cause I found out for myself when I did my first 612 and it fell off my saw horses where I had stained it. Everything stayed perfectly in place. so I'm happy with my own construction.


or like D.o.S. said... weed joints cause I sure as hell don't smoke them.

Those jigs/joints are good for furniture and kitchen cabinet work. Usually for guitar/bass cabs you wouldn't use butt joints and fasteners. Usually a box joint (pretty much a finger joint), rabbet joint or dovetail joint. Though personally I hate dovetail joints, they're not very necessary and mostly for looks these days, though they do work great (there's also lots of types). Usually you're jointing the edges, bracing to keep it square, gluing and clamping and once the glue is dry you've got corners better than you could ever do with screws or nails. Sometimes you may pop some brads in or something to get things registered correctly/tightly while the glue sets, though I don't ever use screws for stuff like that. A couple times on bigger cabinets I've predrilled for screws, glued, then pulled the screws out and filled the holes. Some people use dowels or biscuits, but I doubt that's very common with guitar or bass cabs. Certainly you brace the internal corners afterward as well.

You could probably try doing a guitar cab like that. Maybe just do it in place of a few clamps (at least some would still be advisable though). I'd still glue it and maybe just do 4 screws on each side to line everything up and get it tight while it sets. Can't really hurt anything if you're just trying something out for yourself, you'd still have to brace the inside corners either way.

Carve a box out of the truck of a redwood

I got to play around with Mr. Grumpy for about 20 minutes with my standard tuning P bass and a few dirt pedals, into my Ampeg 810 and Dually 215. Sealed 810 sounds killer with it, prefer that so far. Threw on a Boss ODB-3, Joyo Ultimate Drive, Dunwich Cthulhu Fuzz and Dunwich Volt Thrower, all killed with different settings and fingerstyle or pick. Gain maxed out sound pretty raw without going into splatty fuzz.

I tuned it all the way up. My ears are still ringing. It also blew the grill off my 810.

Corey Y wrote:...It also blew the grill off my 810.

that should part of the "Doom QC" testing for amps...

Do it again but film it for us

ShaolinLambKiller wrote:Do it again but film it for us

This.

this is going to be awesome

A little 4 pedal project I have going

so, a buddy of mine got in touch today to give me first dibs on his two ampeg v4's he's selling. one of them i borrowed from him a few years ago when my amp was in the shop for a week or two and it is hands down the best sounding v4 i've ever played. it's a mid 70's master volume. i know everyone likes the non master older ones better, but trust me, this one was a magical fire breather. i've dreamed of owning it ever since then. i've tried out other v4's that i thought about buying but passed on them cause they didn't sound this good. i've lusted after it. anyway, i thought he'd get buried with it, but here's my chance. of course i don't have the money lying around to buy it and i'm not going to sell my jmp, but i could probably scrape together some cash over the next week or two. problem is, he doesn't really know what he wants to ask for it. it's been perfectly maintained, cap job blah blah all that. he's meticulous with his gear. i know for a fact it sounds fucking rad and he does too. i always think $5-600 is a nice price to pay for these amps, but i know that prices really have been creeping up on these. i'm sure he'd want to give me a decent deal, but i really don't want to lowball him. he's a good dude, with kids to support and i know is probably not stoked about selling precious gear. i know i see the ones for sale for $1000-1200 that just sit there forever. that's obviously a crazy price. i know they are occasionally spotted in the wild for crazy cheap, but i think just cause you see one for $450 or hear about it, that doesn't make it the fair market price. the $500 v4 is becoming a pretty rare find and i know people sell them all the time for $800. that being said, i just can't afford it at $8-900 and only might be able to figure it out at $600. but this is a unicorn amp for me, this individual one, and i can't just let it slip away without trying. is it still decent of me to offer $600? does that seem normal enough, for anyone who's bought or shopped for one recently? i know the MV models are slightly less desirable than the NMV, so i've got that going for me.

i know there are people who'd say they'd never pay more than $500 for one or they see them all the time for way cheaper. i'd like to see these ones that are all over the place at that price cause i just don't see them. and just cause someone bought theirs five or ten years ago for $300 also doesn't make it the current fair price. but i still want y'all's opinions.

I think $600 is fair for a first-dibs style bro deal, and subsequently it's a fair offer. The same way you'd charge some fuckhead buying it for his super cool Dotted Swells band $750. I would offer him but also let him know that he could sell it to some fucking asshole on craigslist for more than that if he wants to deal with it.

Not that my opinion matters at all on this point, but I would rather sell gear to someone I know will use it properly than get a little more back and sell it to someone I don't, and I think that's true of most non-assholes.

I also think $600 is a completely reasonable offer, especially since it has had the caps replaced. I bought a non master volume one a couple years ago for just a hair less than that and felt fine with it.